Almerimar Life

It is hard to believe that we have done so much since arriving on October 1st. December is just around the corner and we are seriously behind in our plans to have some of our outline passage planning done for next season.

Bedtime reading!

OK, a big factor has been the weather. The novelty of winter sun and daytime temperatures in the low twenties has made us a touch complacent. It is not like we had a lot of boat related jobs to do and of course the main one, anti-fouling the hull can wait until next season.

We have serviced the winches, removed the sails and taken them to the local sailmaker for a new leech line jamming cleat and a general once over. We have also removed the spray hood to have new securing straps fitted as the old ones are a little worn, through UV degradation. All the bilges are dry but did need a hoover, which meant removing all manner of things we stowed away before leaving the UK earlier this year.
We had both packed a 'winter' collection of warm clothes but so far shorts and t-shirts are still the norm. However, our little oil heater does go on at night as the temperature drops.
Last year, we took down the headlining and insulated with a sort of foil bubble wrap. It may have helped to keep the heat out during the summer but it still got to over 40C inside the boat. It will be interesting to see how we get on in the 'winter' months.

Lynne is chief engineer and will carry out the engine service before we leave. We have already checked the fuel pre-filter and it looked very clean, which was a surprise as we have done a lot more motoring than we anticipated this season.

Our whisker pole proved a pain to deploy but we are adding some extra rigging and blocks to help alleviate the problem. This will help with our downwind sailing in light airs. However, so many people have told us over the years that the Med is all or nothing when it comes to wind. The way we are going to rig the pole will still allow us to reef the genoa in a hurry if we need to. 

Scarlet in winter mode



The local supermarket is a Mercadona, really well stocked and only a five minute walk away, but we have also been into the nearby town of El Ejido to visit the local market. The market offers a wide variety of clothing and suchlike but also has a good selection of produce.

El Ejido market

Nibbles anyone?



Almerimar marina has a reputation for having a good liveaboard community and was one of the things that attracted us to come here.
Every day except Sunday, there is a 'yotties' radio net on VHF Channel 67 and you can take part in some sort of activity nearly every day if you want to. From Boules on the beach to weekly quiz nights, walks in the mountains and Tai Chi classes if you are feeling energetic, to name but a few.
It is always good to meet people and we love walking around the marina. It is like having a boat show on your doorstep!

Looking South down darsena 1. The building in the distance
is the marina office with the fuel dock and waiting pontoon    

We really like sailing boats but below was one of the mot spectacular sights we have seen this year.
The 'chameleon' paint job must have cost a fortune and changed colour from every angle. Perhaps some connection to 'James Bond' ? The boat was called Zero Zero Seven.

Martini, shaken or stirred?

Soon after we arrived in October we met up with Lynne's parents who kindly drove down to see us and then we hired a car to follow them back to their home in Murcia for a much anticipated soak in the bath. It's funny the things you miss!
Murcia is about a three hour drive away. We both enjoy visiting this part of Spain, especially our walks alongside the Mar Menor, the biggest inland sea in Europe and just a few minutes walk from the house.

Many thanks to Sheila and Graham for the loan of the bath for a few hours, it was truly bliss!

Los Alcazares on the Mar Menor (in October)

Soon after we returned back to Almerimar we found ourselves renting a car again, this time with Chris and Frances (Usquabae) and new Australian friend Vicky (Wraith) with the aim to go and visit the Alhambra in Granada.
The Nasrid Palace within the complex is restricted to a certain amount of visitors daily and you have to pre-book a visiting slot online. The only downside was that the slot we had was for 9.30am, which meant departing at 6am!
As it happened, it was definitely worth the early start. It was not the best of weather on this particular day but the Palace is jaw dropping and well worth the effort to get there.
It would take up too much room here to go into the history but you can see more about it by clicking this link Alhambra

Below are a few pictures to give you a taste.

Alhambra Palace taken from the gardens

Plunge pool?

Remains of barracks

Stunning ceilings

Palace grounds

Views of Granada

On the drive back to Almerimar we took the scenic route down through the Sierra Nevada mountain range. If you like challenging driving and changing from first to second gear and back again this is the road for you. Our rental car was a family saloon and a bit like a fish out of water but Wow!, what an experience.

Thankfully, the weather improved for a flying visit from Lynne's twin sister Louise, husband Tony and two nieces who popped over from Murcia whilst on a short vacation. We look forward to catching up with them again next year on our trip back to the UK.

Chillin' in the cockpit with friends and family

Almerimar marina has also provided us with some great entertainment. On Friday nights you can go to the yotties get together at Mario's and just around the corner, Leo's bar usually has a tribute act. So far we have seen Cher and Tina Turner!
We have been told that there are over seventy bars and restaurants on the complex as well as some nightclubs along the beach. Eating out is good value and just about every type of cuisine is catered for but we are missing an Indian curry, perhaps we have just not looked hard enough!

November sees the start of the annual World Cruising Club Atlantic yacht migration event otherwise know as the ARC. This is of particular interest to us as five of the boats that were on the Rally Portugal are taking part. Coral IV, Ravi, Murphy, Katerina and Ailsa. We will also be paying close attention to Jay Jay, Paul and Debra Witting's Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 42 DS.

The Rally website has a Fleet Tracker which allows those interested, to check the progress of the yachts taking part. Each yacht is fitted with a special tracking device called a YellowBrick and we had one for the duration of the Rally Portugal. The thought of 2500 miles across the Atlantic is frankly daunting but we wish all the participants the very best.

With the year drawing to a close we are looking forward to spending Christmas here with Lynne's brother Phill who is joining us soon. We should also mention that we have asked Phill to contribute a 'guest' entry in December. It will be interesting to get his perspective.


Steve and Lynne xx

Gibraltar to Almerimar

Actually, we have been in Almerimar marina for just over a month now but have had a steady stream of visitors and as a consequence, have not updated our blog sooner.
More on Almerimar shortly but firstly let us pick up on our journey here.
We left La Linea marina at the end of September and had more or less decided that we wanted to do a final 'long passage' at the end of the season. There are not many anchorages between Gibraltar and Almerimar and we would need a good weather window to make them tenable. As it happened the weather had taken a turn for the worse and was becoming much more unsettled. Our almost unbroken spell of not seeing rain since June came to an abrupt end one day with a huge storm and reports of severe flooding all along the Costa del Sol. The flash flooding was so severe that sadly, ten people lost their lives. It just goes to show the forces of Mother Nature which you can never take for granted.
We left the waypoints for various marinas in the chartplotter just in case we had to run for cover along the way but is it happened we covered the 135nm journey in about 26 hours in a mixture of conditions from almost no wind to a very pleasant force 4 to 5 at night. We had arrived in Gibraltar in fog so it was a welcome relief to leave in better conditions and after rounding Europa Point lighthouse we enjoyed a good period of downwind sailing under just the genoa.

Rounding Europa Point - Gibraltar

We had prepared a casserole the day before so heated this up for dinner and at about 8pm we rigged up the lee cloth on the port sofa and settled into our watch rota of three hours on and three off.

Sea berth - very comfy!

By now the wind had died so the engine had to go on but at about 2.00am it picked up enough to hoist the sails and turn off the engine for a good while. 
The wind was now coming from directly where we wanted to go so in order to make progress it was necessary to tack along our intended route. Fortunately, the genoa winches can be operated from the helm and the auto pilot has a self tacking function. This means that by pressing two buttons the pilot will tack the boat through 100 degrees. A nice touch if you are short-handed.

Night sails on longer passages are something we both really enjoy and may feature in our future longer term plans. This one was no exception as we soon found ourselves surrounded by a pod of dolphins and it was mesmerising to watch the trails of phosphorescence that they left behind as they swam along side and played at the bow. When dawn did break the wind had once again died down to almost nothing, so back on with the engine. Once the mist had burnt off, it was interesting to see the coastline with the snow capped Sierra Nevada mountain range as a spectacular backdrop.

Sierra Nevadas

As we got nearer to Almerimar the coastline takes on a rather bizarre appearance courtesy of the miles and miles of poly tunnels, we are now in the 'greenhouse' of Europe. Huge tracts of land devoted to growing vegetables which consumers can enjoy all year round.

Miles of poly tunnels

By now, the sea was almost flat calm and we began to notice large clumps of vegetation, presumably washed down from rivers following the recent flash floods.

Almerimar Marina entrance was straightforward enough and like many other marinas we have been to this year, you dock up at the waiting pontoon and check in before getting a berth allocated.
We had already been here by car last year and had read many other yacht blogs which described it as having a good liveaboard community, plus it is relatively inexpensive and worked out at about 1600 euros for six months. Of course, once again we are classed as a 15m boat so if you have one under 12 metres the price drops quite a bit. Electric and water are extra and cost a hefty 3 euros per day, worth factoring in when making comparisons.
Berthing is also med mooring which involves picking up a  'sinker' line from the dock and running up to the other end of the boat to pull the main line which is attached to a weight on the seabed and tie it off on a cleat.
Our first experience of this was at Bayona, our first landfall after crossing Biscay but all went well as the helpful marina staff were on hand to assist.

Winter berth - Almerimar marina

The marina is large and having the bikes helps us get around. Every morning there is an informative liveaboard radio net on channel 67 and we have already attended a few quiz nights and played boules on the beach. The local supermarket (Mercadona) is just a few minutes walk away and well stocked and we are informed the marina has over 70 bars/restaurants to choose from!

Well that is all for now. We have already driven to Murcia to visit Lynne's parents and have a hire car booked to go and visit Alhambra and Granada shortly but more on that and an update on life in Almerimar next time.

Steve and Lynne xx



Gibraltar - La Linea - Ronda

Actually, we are in Alcaidesa Marina at La Linea in Spain, on the border with Gibraltar. The marina is only a few years old and as we had previously stayed in Marina Bay in Gibraltar a while back when on a sailing course, so we decided to try somewhere new.

The prices are very reasonable although, electric and water are metered and we don't have the final bill yet. There is a good laundry on site with a large capacity washer for only 4 Euros a wash. We are on a finger pontoon rather than a Med mooring, but this is probably the last time this will happen from here on in.

Many people will know that Gibraltar is famous for its population of Barbary Apes that reside at the top of the rock. Legend has it that when the Apes leave, so will the British.

Is it just us or can you too see the face of a Gorilla in the picture below? Spooky or what?

Faces in the Rock

If you look a little closer, you can also make out a 'human' face above the mouth and below the right eye with an upturned mouth. OK, so maybe the local Vino Tinto is a little stronger but you had to be here to see how realistic it looked!

The local town has several supermarkets but we mainly used the Mercadona as it was only a 15 minute walk away. We are still struggling a little with recipes so if you are missing familiar stuff from the UK and want to cheat, you could always nip over the border to Morrisons. We have many cook books on board and need to study these in a little more detail, as both of us need to branch out and get more creative. Salads are fine and prawns are always welcome at any mealtime but seven days a week....

It was a bonus to attend the opening night of the Alcaidesa Lounge Bar at the marina, just a stones throw from our pontoon. Free drinks and tapas went down very well and we both wish this venture every success for the future.

One of the other Rally boats, Plane Magic arrived this month. We had not seen Neil and Hilary since Lagos and it was really nice to spend some time chilling out together. We even enjoyed a session of ten pin bowling at the King's Bastion Leisure Centre in Gib (unlimited bowling on 'Thrifty Thursday' night between 7pm and 11pm for only £10 per person).

We are also incredibly grateful to Hilary for organising some VIP tickets to the very first Gibraltar Music Festival featuring Ali Campbell's UB40 and Jessie J amongst many local acts.

Neil and Hilary of Plane Magic

The setting was very opulent indeed as was the guest list. it is not every day you get to meet a former Miss World!




The very beautiful and charming Kaiane Aldorino with a very happy Steve!

The festival was a sell out and UB40 were particularly good (Lynne was very happy as they are one of her favourite bands and she enjoyed having a singalong and a bit of a boogie). We are very grateful for the experience, it was Plane Magic!




A packed venue



Jessie J

From one major even to another...  Just a few days later we once again nipped across the border, this time to attend Gibraltar National Day, dressed appropriately in red and white (the entire population turns out in the colours of the Gibraltar flag).

Casemates Square was packed with standing room only.



Gibraltar National Day 2012 in Casemates Square

The atmosphere was amazing as this clip hopefully shows.




A few days later we met up with Vaughan from the Rally boat Viking, who was having a short stopover in Gibraltar at Marina Bay.

Marina Bay Apartments, you need deep pockets here!

We had a meal in the local Casino - a 2 for 1 special offer (well we are cruising folk) and took the time together to swap adventures since parting company in Lagos.

Vaughan

We wish Vaughan well and hope we will meet up again next season.

About 10 days into what was turning into a packed social life, our friends Tim and Tina flew in from the UK to spend a week with us. It was an emotional farewell leaving them in Plymouth and equally emotional catching up with them again.

As it was their first time here we did the usual sightseeing which included a trip up the rock with associated stunning views.  We took one of the organised 'Rock Tours' on a mini bus, which takes you to the Pillars of Hercules, St Michael's Cave, The Monkey's Den and The Great Siege Tunnels.  This really is the best way to see the sights as the roads are very steep and narrow, which makes it a tiring walk.

View from near the top of the Rock looking towards La Linea and our marina base. The runway separates the border



St Michael's Caves

 

The Great Siege Tunnels

 

















The Pillars of Hercules





Tim & Tina by the Pllars of Hercules



We think Tim and Tina enjoyed the day!

Tim and Tina also did a dolphin watching boat trip but we opted out as we had seen so many dolphins on our journey here.  They saw several large pods and even got to see a dolphin calf with its mum, which really made Tina's day.

For our final evening together we pushed the boat out (well walked across the road actually), to the most fabulous restaurant called aQa.
What a find. The food here is simply divine. If you have a special occasion or just want a great meal out and worry about the cruising budget another time, you should try this place. The starters are huge, so make sure you have a big appetite!



The restaurant is upstairs and the bar/cafe downstairs



After Tim and Tina left we set about getting the boat ready for our next voyage along the Spanish coast.  Unfortunately, the weather had other ideas! A huge low pressure was due to pass through and we are always cautious so we decided to stay a little longer. This delay just so happened to coincide with the arrival of Rally boats Katerina and Ravi who were making their way to Gran Canaria to join the ARC.  It was fantastic to see Scott, Julia, Harald, Ragnhild and Svein Inge again.

We had a get together and dinner on Katerina followed by a get together and dinner on Ravi.

Julia, Harald & Ragnhild onboard Katerina





Scott with a vintage box of Don Simon Vino Tinto on Katrerina!







Scott, Lynne & Ragnhild on Ravi



Steve and Scott got chatting and said how much they both missed a good curry. We noticed an Indian restaurant, the Tahj Mahal in La Linea town centre and all decided to give it a go. The boys were keen to introduce our Norweigen friends off Ravi to the British tradition of beer and curry. (they also do a take out service and will deliver to the marina)



Scott, Ragnhild, Steve, Lynne, Julia & Harald enjoying  curry



Whilst we were waiting for the bad weather to pass, we decided to take a trip to Ronda. The crews off Katerina and Ravi had made the trip themselves the last time they were in La Linea and highly recommended it.  We got the bus to Algeceiras and then caught the train to Ronda.  The train journey was approximately 1 hour and 45 minutes long and took us through some breathtaking scenery through the mountains.



The train to Ronda



Situated in the far northwest of the province of Malaga, Ronda sits on an outcrop of rock in a basin surrounded by mountain ranges. It is one of the oldest towns in Spain and its cultural heritage and surroundings are Arabic. The views from the Old Town really are spectacular.



Puente Nuevo (New Bridge) built in the 18th Century





Puento Viejo-Puento Arabe (Old Arab Bridge) built in the 16th Century





Platform overlooking the views from Ronda





View from the platform





Ronda 'New Town' taken from the Old Town



One of the highlights was visiting the Arab Baths, dating back to the 14th century.  They are the best preserved in Spain and are the Muslim adaptation of the ancient Roman baths. They consist of the same system of reception, three rooms for bathing, cold, temperate and hot, underfloor heating and heater.



The outside of the Arab Baths





Inside the Arab Baths



Ronda is also home to the oldest Bullring in Spain.  It was the first purpose built space for fighting bulls in the World and is considered to be one of the most picturesque. The first fight took place in 1785 and the matadors were the local born Pedro Romero and the Sevillian Pepe Hillo.



Statue of a matador outside the Bullring



The next photo was taken especially for Lynne's mum who collects wall plates!

Oh well, it is almost time to move on again so the preperations have started for our next leg. We will leave for Almerimar soon but have still not decided whether to head over in one go or, to anchor along the way and take our time. The weather forecast will decide for us.


Until next time..

Steve and Lynne xx